San Camp, set amidst the vast, otherworldly expanse of Botswana’s Makgadikgadi Pans, features seven billowing beige tents, blending into the stark white desert. Once the bed of an ancient lake, the terrain is marked by shallow hollows and clusters of stunted acacia trees. This is the realm of the elusive brown hyena, as well as suricates, aardvarks, and small bustards. Here, it takes nothing more than camping atop a forgotten dune, watching the shadows grow long as the sun sinks low, and hearing the cry of the jackal as darkness settles to feel the pulse of Africa’s untamed soul.